Sunday, July 27, 2008

Day 65: And the Journey Continues....

Day 65 - 7/20/08
Start - Banff
End - Banff!!
Because we're done! First full day off after finishing the ride- and it was rather nice to not be sitting on a hard, small, violating bike saddle for 7 hours. Around 11:30 am while sitting in the coffee shop, it hit me that I wasn't continuing on with the trip. Good and bad feelings- nice to be able to relax, but this lifestyle is also just so damn appealingly simple. What can you do? The day was spent at the coffee shop for a few hours, and then I went to .... church. I can't really remember the last time I went to church- but Mark was going today, so I decided why not? It was actually quite nice and we met another Dutch bicycle tourer named Samuel. Super nice guy and we've been kicking it all day. The rest of the day was filled with napping in a grassy park- I'm just as much of a sucker for a good nap as anyone. Then I finally got my bike fixed up, the pannier rack supports were falling off, but now they should last. Following that laziness, we rode a few miles out of town to Lake Minnewanka to camp, probably illegal to pad down here, but who's going to say something. Disregarding the touristy nature of Banff, it certainly boasts some beautiful scenery very close to the town. Swimming in the lake was done more out of necessity than desire, seeing that I hadn't cleaned myself in a countless number of days. I would have to say that the shrinkage occurred-! A super cold dip, but worth it. Dinner was superb with fresh veggies from town- carrots, broccoli, garlic, tomatoes- delicious. Now all of the people have left and Mark, Samuel, and I have the place to ourselves for the night. I'm still figuring out future plans- but the idea now is to take a couple of days to do some hiking here, relax with Mark before he kicks it over to Vancouver, and then I'll be riding another 150 miles or so to see Lake Louise and end up in Jasper. I guess I just haven't had enough of this riding thing. It's quite addicting, so watch out anyone being teased by merciless of the bicycle demon. The roads up to Jasper are reportedly stunning and who knows when I'll be in this area again. That's the way it goes. Mosquitoes are building a little and the Frodo's ring is calling my attention for a little reading. So I must sign off. Eat well, ride hard, live long.

Day 64: The End

Day 64 - 7/19/08
Start - Tobermory cabin before Elk Pass
End - Banff- the END Beotch!!
Mileage - 70 miles
The end has finally come. The end, the end, the end. Hard to believe. I have been rudely delivered back into civilization by entering into Banff, Alberta. This is most certainly a tourist mecca, and I may have been a tourist for the past 3,000 miles, but you better believe that I was a bike tourist. My five star hotels are flat pine straw padded sites with wind protection. My fine dinners were lentils and couscous for dinner and granola with powdered milk for breakfast, and of course peanut butter for all times of the day. My exercise room is a 100 square mile wilderness forest with sick singletrack and dirt roads to explore. It might be a bit different from your standard Banff tourist life, but I happen to adore this lifestyle. And, as I wipe away the sleep at the corner of my eye, I am sad to say that the Stewie singlespeeder vagabonder life gasped its last breath today as I rolled into the parking lot of the Banff Springs Hotel. I knew it would happen at some time, but da!mn it I'm not ready for it. Alas, the meager life shall continue in some sort of stereotypical fashion as I fumble to obtain an acceptable mode of operating. That's the way it goes. So Mark and I rode the final 70 miles of the bike sojourn today. It only took about 3.5 hour to ride the first 10 miles, it always seems to be exceedingly hard to accomplish things on the days we actually want to get somewhere. I took off a little before Marky-Mark in the morning and later found myself lost in a maze of ski trails around the Kananaski Lake area. Great biking, but I was nowhere near where I wanted to be, which was en route to Banff. Eventually I found a little convenience store, soothed my wounds with chocolate milk, and grabbed it up with an old/odd woman. Mark miraculously appeared about 45 minutes later, having also been lost for awhile. Gotta love life. So we pushed onward. Gotta say one thing- the Canadian Rockies kick ass! Definitely some of the best scenery of the entire trip. Wicked views of rocky mountain outcroppings, topped off with glaciers and snow with beautiful clouds dancing on the peaks. Not to mention the lakes, sun, and some other pretty things in the world.We kicked out the last 50 miles along Spray Lake without getting lost. Thank Allah. For the last 12 miles we received the divine opportunity to ride the quasi singletrack on the Goat Creek Trail. This turned out to be one of my favorite sections of trail of the entire trip. Just technical enough to keep my attention, but not so burly that it rocked the f out of my body and panniers. Just amazing. Couldn't believe that I was about to wrap up the 3,000 mile pilgrimage in just a few minutes. But it happened, as I rolled into the Banff Springs Castle. The first order of business was to feed the beast inside. After consulting with some locals on the side of the street, we navigated to the Old Spagetti House in one of the many malls of Banff. Scrumptious meal. We feast like kings- we killed off three loafs of bread, salad, a pitcher of beer, spaghetti, ice cream, and coffee. Heaven was shining on me at that moment. It's always a nice to have a celebratory meal after an epic trek. Wow. Now I'm sitting my pale ass in the movie theater about to view the new batman movie- I believe it's called The Dark Night. Regardless, it's feeling pretty weird right now to be sitting in the middle of a bunch of homo sapiens that are clean and dressed in something other than spandex cycling clothing. Oh, where are my lovely Douglas Firs, they judge not and have no fashions. I have entered back into the human society, and it will take some adjusting- hopefully I can stomach it. Gotta people watch now, it's like a free circus. Peace.

Day 63: The Night Before the End of the Trail (Christmas)

Day 63 - 7/18/08
Start - Elk River
End - Tobermory Cabin
Mileage - ~57 miles
Good early start and rolled down into Elkford, BC around 10 am or so. There are really only a few shops in Elkford, so there wasn't much of a choice in where to stop to wait for Marky-Mark to show up. I chose the first gas station which was reputed to have strong coffee and scrumptious calories. Mark showed up soon thereafter whereupon I found myself consuming something vaguely equivalent to motor oil. But it souped me up rather nicely and in my caffeinated state I also had an english muffin with egg and cheese. I'd have to agree with the hobbits that the 11ses meal is one of the best of the day. 5-7 meals per day sounds like quite a nice thing, eh? But not if you're trying to maintain a svelte figure of a madonna impersonator, good thing that's not my life. Rolling out of Elkford placed us onto a beautiful gravel road that delivers us nearly 110 miles into Banff. Next to the Gila Wilderness in New Mexico, it probably is one of the most isolated sections of the trail. And the beauty is certainly accompanied as well. We got the word from another racer, Matthew Lee who won the Tour de Divide this year, that a certain hut named Tobermory was THE place to stay. So that was the goal. About 5 miles out from the hut, the sky started to open up with rain and a little bit of sleet. Great- so it made the finishing run into the hut quite expedient, albeit a bit nippy. It was almost uncanny how we planned to stay here. This was the worst rain we encountered of the trip and we've got a friggin' cabin with a wood burning stove, bunk beds, and a sesame street comforter!! Heaven I tell you. I immediately passed out on the bed while Mark putzed around with the fire to warm our newly discovered abode. Now it's rather toasty in here and I am as happy as a mosquito in a nudist colony. Tomorrow we've got a longer 70 mile day, but nothing can stop us from finishing up this little adventure. Banff will be acquired, even if it requires a bit of the proverbial "inner diesel". It's odd how the last night of these epic adventures to me always seems like the night before Christmas when I was young. Instead of being anxious to get downstairs and break into the presents early- I now can't wait to pedal 70 miles into Banff. I guess that's the way it goes. As I've aged (and probably not matured too much), I'm glad that I still retain a little of the 'ol Christmas fever from time to time, even if it is in the buttass remote boonies of British Columbia in the pouring rain. From your lovely Banff-bound Stewie logging off- "to all a good night!"

Day 62 Wisdom from Humungus

Day 62 - 7/17/08
Start - Outside Fernie, BC
End - Elk River near Elkford, BC
Mileage - ~55 miles
Nice lazy morning once again. Rolled out of camp around 10 am and onto the dirt road. It would be our only dirt for the rest of the day, so I tried to savor every pedal stroke before we were to hit the dreaded pavement. After 30 minutes or so, we hit a group of 9 riders from an Adventure Cycling group riding the Canadian section from Banff down to Roosville at the border. It was crazy to see that many riders at one time. Interesting people bearing great news that the scenery only gets better as we approach Banff, oh yeah. Then we rolled onto the happening little town of Fernie in British Columbia. Our first real town on Canada- and it is sweet. Granted its skiing, mountain biking, and outdoor mecca- so it figures that it's up our alley. After purchasing some calories, we were off to Freshies- the dopiest coffee shop in town. Janice, the super nice barista, whipped up an earl grey soy latte with vanilla that was out of this world. Of course we had to chill for a few hours and soak up the good tunes and vibes. Then it was off to Sparwood.After 20 miles of riding on hwy 3, we got to Sparwood. Sparwood boasts quite an amazing tourist attraction- the world's largest truck. And it is indeed rather large. Even bigger than the trucks we encountered after getting lost in New Mexico and illegally entering into an active mine. We played along and took the stock photograph in front of the truck, and to tell you the truth, it was quite satisfying. Net amazing thing of the day...at the library I found the Fellowship of the Ring by Tolkien on sale for 10 cents! You might not be too excited by this, which is okay, but it works out perfectly since I just finished the hobbit. Rereading the Tolkien series is great fun. We moved on another 1.5 hours or so and are now camping on the side of a beautiful river- at least it was much more beautiful until the mosquitoes began to emerge from their caves. Now they swarming and decreasing the quality of my life. Alas, I believe I shall survive. Two more days of the bike adventure until Banff. I've been having vision of celebrating my arrival with a spinach and walnut salad, 14 oz tofu steak (if that kinda thing exists, but that's why it's a vision), washed down with a locally brewed porter- yum, yum!! Gotta start a fire and enjoy some of the banana bread cooked with home-ground wheat flour by Lord Humungus of the Wasteland (not a joke if you're wondering). As Humungus reminds me all of the time and I would like to share this kernel of knowledge with y'all (yup, I'm a southern boy)-....."Life is But a Dream"

Day 62: Reaching Canada

Day 61- 7/16/08
Start - Eureka, MT
End - before Fernie, BC
Mileage - ~50 miles
Another beautifully relaxing morning. After packing up my life for the final time in the USA for this trip, we went over to the Front Porch- the best coffee shop in Eureka. I picked up half of a cantoulope, with granola, banana, and a cup of joe for b-fast. Met the chef there- named Bob- super cool guy that was really into biking. He made probably the best potato salad I've ever had in my life. Once he was done I went to his house to meet his family and use his internet. So I purchased a ticket home from New York. You know the end of a trip is approaching when final arrangements for returning are made. Quite sad. After we finish in Banff, I'm planning to stick around for a week or so and explore the hiking in Banff, Jasper, and Canmore. Hopefully I can sell my bike then and I'll be making my way to New York to help a friend move in. Should be a nice end to the trip. We're sitting at a Loon Lake- our first stop in Canada! I crossed the border about 1 hour ago and had a great chat with the border lady. Gotta love Canada, especially when you've been riding from Mexico to reach it. Just had a spectacular swim and now it's time to eat lunch. Life is but a dream.

Day 60 Eureka: Movies and Beer

Day 60 - 7/15/08
Start - Polebridge, MT
End - Eureka, MT
Mileage - 55 miles
Took a relaxing morning at the hostel this morning. A big pot of black tea followed by the standard granola with powdered goat milk. After packing the life into the panniers, I migrated to one of the two stores and picked up a freshly baked huckleberry bear claw for a post lunch desert. Then we rolled out of Polebridge around 10 am or so. Polebridge has definitely been one of my favorites places of the trip, so if you're ever cruising around northern Montana looking for enlightenment, stop in and be sure to sample the bakery. We had 55 miles to reach Eureka with the idea of getting there before the post office closes. With about 30 miles of climbing, albeit rather gradual, we had to move our little hineys expediently. Nice road today, a little busy until we really started the climb up to the Whitefish Divide. Then the road became ours for the taking. On the way up we met another southbound Great Divide rider, they're starting to amass, which is nice to see I assume. This is the time of year for the southbounders to kick off their pilgramages, and there are definitely more southbounders than northies. Regardless, we hit the Whitefish Divide around 1:30pm and snarfed a quick lunch, which of course was terminated with the delicious huckleberry bear claw. Rolling out at 2pm gave us 2 hours to cover about 27 miles to reach Eureka, assuming the post office closed at 4pm (a conservative guess). It doesn't sound that hard, but having 30 extra pounds strapped to your bike tends to slow things down a bit. Gravity proved to be on our side for the rush on Eureka and I walked into the post office at 3:57pm. They closed at 5pm, so the sprinting at the end (sprinting by the way doesn't really happen on the single speed) was not necessary. I got my 3 boxes, and picked up like friggin' 15 extra pounds. All worth it. My dear friend Humungus of the Wasteland from the Pacific Crest Trail mailed me some amazing calories, including a stellar banana bread with flour ground by his divine hands. What a respectable homo sapien. So I mailed off my chacos because I got my hiking shoes to hit the trails around Banff, and then I was off. Eureka is quite the nice town. We went to the police station and found a campsite for $5, with a shower (but the shower is a bit ghetto, I was wishing my soap was on the proverbial rope). We're going to see a movie tonight- the Incredible Hulk (only thing playing) - and of course sneak in a few brewskies to enjoy the show. Gotta love life here.8 miles to reach the border tomorrow. Can't believe it. Then another 220 miles to finish up the trip to Banff. Time to eat brown rice and lentils- amounting to a total of 40g of fiber, or 162% of my daily value. I hope Mark doesn't draft me tomorrow! Laterz...

Day 59 Doctor's, Hostels, and the View

Day 59 - 7/14/08
Start - Glacier National Park
End - Mileage - ~40 miles
A nice relaxing morning with a big pot of green tea followed by oatmeal. Kicked out the campground around 10:30 am or so, which was not the best since bikes were not supposed to be on the next 16 miles of road after 11 am, but such is life. We made it through the "illegal" section of road without being stopped and lunched in Apgar. Apgar is a little touristy town in the park, nothing super special, but my double shot of espresso was rather tasty. Then we pushed on to Polebridge, MT, about 24 miles away from Apgar. There were 6 miles of gravel, which was super bumpy and not too much fun, but alas we arrived. Within a few minutes the guys on the porch delivered a cold beverage (yes, a beer) into our hands to ease our aching bodies. Once again I love Montana. Mark and I shared a few beers with them- they were from Whitefish and Calgary and were out boating for a few days around Glacier. One of the guys, William Ferril, is a doctor in Whitefish and practices holistic medicine. What a crazy thing to meet him in all the places but Polebridge. The paths of lives intertwined and he gave me some great advice on medical school and how to sustain the proverbial mojo, or gumption as Pirsig would say it. Dr.
Ferril writes books on holistic healing, so check out his stuff at www.thebodyheals.com. Meeting people on this trip is great, especial when it seems like they've been placed for a reason. We were then informed that there was a legendary hostel closeby. Ok, so you've got to understand something- Polebridge, MT has two stores, the very small bakery/cafe and a restaurant. Not much at all. It doesn't seem like anyone comes here unless they've heard about it before, or are delivered into their grips on a 3,000 mile bike trip. So of course I love it. I made my way over to the hostel to check it out- it's called the North Fork Hostel and Square Peg Ranch- www.nfhostel.com. Just perfect- no electricity, an outhouse, great people. So in spite of a little bit shorter day, I had to stop here. There's only like 5 days left of the trip, so we might as well soak it up while we can (before the "real world" hits). The afternoon calls for a little yoga, postcard writing, and reading. Sounds invigorating. By the way, Glacier National Park is truly stunning. Just to make that clear. Alright, I'm out.